




|
2015
Ramblers Hikes
Page 2 (July to December) |
Page
1 (January to June 2015)
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The Ramblers are Carolyn
Amicone, Julie Hornback, Wes Thiessen, and Dick Estel, former
colleagues at the Fresno County Department of
Social Services. Every
month or so we get together for a short hike, good conversation, and
lunch. Click here
for Page 1 plus links to 2014 hikes. |
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Photos
Related Links
More
Travel Reports |
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Courtright
Reservoir Hike
Taft Point
Wawona Trails
Shadow
of the Giants
San Joaquin River Trail (Finegold)
Jensen Trail
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Courtright
Reservoir Hike
My hiking
history can be divided into several distinct time periods, each with
different levels of effort and distance. First, when I was a kid, lots of hiking and just walking around the
countryside near my house in Bootjack (Mariposa County CA), mostly
very unstructured.
Then, hiking
in Yosemite Valley while attending 4-H camp. These were organized
hikes, with a bunch of kids and an adult leader. They were either a half-day around the valley, or a full day on some
trail that usually went up to a specific destination, including the
top of Yosemite Falls, and Glacier Point. These all-day hikes were
typically about eight miles round trip.
After this
there was not much hiking - usually just short walks when camping,
starting around 1963.
Finally
there were day hikes in the Sierra as an adult. When I
moved to Fresno in 1966, I became friends with Lew Koch, who worked with me
at KJEO, Channel 47. He was from Kentucky, and had fallen in love
with the Sierra. He had taken a number of day hikes, sometimes with
his wife, but more often with another colleague, Wil Heath. One day
they invited me to join them.
Our
destination was Courtright
Reservoir, at 8,000 feet in the Sierra,
beyond Shaver Lake and Dinkey Creek, about a two-hour drive from
Fresno. None of us had ever been there before. A mile or so before
you reach the dam there is a vista point off the main road which
gives a good view of the LeConte
Divide, a range of peaks that separates the San Joaquin and
Kings River watersheds.
When we
approached the lake itself, we were captivated by the scene - rows of domes
rising up on both sides of a small blue lake, with a deep gorge
running out below the dam. Our hike revealed even more impressive
scenes, and I have been there a number of times since then.
It has
probably been over ten years since my last visit, so it seemed the
perfect place for the Ramblers' July hike. None of the others had
been there, and the elevation meant we would have pleasant
conditions for a summer hike.
We got an
early start on July 8, but sadly, Julie was not with us. She has
some vision issues that need to be corrected, so she plans to skip
hiking until September. Our route was up State Highway 168 to Shaver
Lake, where we turned east on the Dinkey Creek Road. From here
it's about 15 miles to Dinkey
Creek, a resort community that includes public and private
campgrounds. Here we took the McKinley Grove Road east across the
creek. Normally you see people fishing below the bridge, but weather
conditions have reduced this stream to a tiny trickle.
Six miles
from Dinkey Creek the road passes through McKinley
Grove, a small stand of giant sequoias. This location has a
picnic area, paved handicap access trails, and a campground nearby.
Most of the trees can be seen from the road.
When I first
visited Courtright, the trailhead started at the dam, but a number of
years ago the road was extended across the dam, and a large parking
area was constructed about a half mile further into the forest. This
is not just a hiking trail, although it connects to the major trails
of the Sierra, including the John Muir Trail. It is also the
southern end of the Dusy-Ershim Off-Highway Vehicle (OHV) route. I walked
on and wrote about the northern section of this
"Jeep trail" in June. It is
considered one of the most challenging four-wheel drive routes in
the nation, although this end is not nearly as difficult as the
northern section. For hikers, it's not difficult at all, except for
the danger of tripping while gazing at the amazing scenery in all
directions.
From the
parking lot there is a fairly steep but short downhill stretch, then
the trail is relatively level for a little over a mile, which was as
far as we went. It passes through a glaciated valley, with domes and
other granite formations on both sides, and the usual offering of wildflowers,
trees, shrubs and fresh air.
It should be
noted that there is a ridge, a large dome, and a fairly wide expanse
of land between the trail and the lake, so the water is not visible
anywhere along the section we hiked.
Along much
of the trail the landscape is dominated by large domes on each
side. One of the things photos can't quite capture is the constantly
changing views of the dome to our west as we walked past it.
Although it was obscured by trees now and then, from start to finish
we could nearly always get a glimpse of it.
(Later I created a slide
show with various views of what we now call Constant Dome.)
Among the
things that impressed me on my first hike here were the gnarly
Sierra junipers that grew in some of the more rocky, inhospitable
areas along the trail. Due to the extension of the road, we drove
rather than walked through this
section, so I didn't get any new photos, but I've included a couple of juniper
photos from my early trip on this page.
About 3/4 of
the way in from the trailhead, the road and trail become separate,
with the 4-wheel route going to the left, more or less northwest,
while the trail jogs to the right through a flat, forested area.
Apparently in normal rain years this is a somewhat swampy area - for
about 200 yards the trail is a boardwalk constructed of logs.
This division of the trail and the boardwalk are new since my last
visit.
The most
dramatic part of the hike, this one and my first one, was our
arrival at an area we called the Giants Marble
Game. It is a huge
flat granite area, sloping up slightly from the trail for about 100
feet, and at least a thousand feet long. It shows typical signs of
glacial polish, areas that were smoothed off by the passage of
glaciers, and is covered with boulders of all
sizes that were carried along in the ice, and left in their current
location when the massive ice sheets melted. The OHV route crosses
the southwest corner of the granite.
We ended our
hike here, but spent a half hour or more wandering around, taking
pictures, and taking note of small details, such as an area where
pebbles and small rocks have been washed down across the huge
granite slab by flowing water. There is a good view here of Maxson
Dome, which rises above the northeastern corner of the lake, so we
took our usual group photo with this striking feature in the
background. Wes also found the perfect boulder to climb up on for
the obligatory "Wes on the rock" photo.
After
enjoying the beauty of the granite bedrock littered with boulders
and the surrounding forest and domes, we started back. It was not
long before we noticed a Mariposa
lily. I had thought these flowers
were confined to lower elevations, probably because I was used to
seeing them in the foothills of Mariposa County, where I grew up. At
first we saw only two blossoms, but then we saw them at many places
along the trail. For some reason, we had not noticed them at all on
the hike in.
When we
started back we were well
up on the huge granite slab from the trail, and
noticed markers for the 4-wheel drive road across the rock, so we
followed that route back. After it left the rock, we came to a
section that was clearly one of the challenging areas for vehicles.
However, most of the OHV route was relatively level and quite "smooth" for a back-country dirt
road.
We watched
the views of the domes change as we walked, and soon we were making
the short but slightly steep climb back up to the parking area.
Driving out, we stopped at a geological exhibit a short distance
from the trailhead, and again at the lake to take some photos.
We drove
back to Shaver Lake where we planned to eat. We had researched
several restaurants, but the one we chose was only open for dinner,
so we went to the Shaver Lake Market & Deli. The sandwiches were
very good and the service was fair, but the restrooms were out of
order, so I have to give them a black mark for that.
After lunch
we returned to the valley, glad that we had been able to enjoy a
cooler climate for the day. And I will always be grateful to Lew
for helping to introduce me not only to this specific area, but for
getting me interested in day hiking in general.
--Dick
Estel, July 2015
Courtright
Reservoir Photos
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Taft Point
Our August hike took
place on the 9th with a trip to Taft Point in Yosemite National
Park. Unfortunately the injury list
increased to two when Carolyn reported that she was experiencing
severe shoulder pain, and was unable to join us. Julie was already out till September.
We had invited my daughter Jennifer to join us. She lives
near Oakhurst, on our
way to Yosemite, so it was a good chance for her to do
some "rambling" before returning to her teaching job two
days later.
Since we were going to a
very popular national park on a summer weekend, we wanted to get
there as early as possible to get a parking spot at the trailhead.
Wes picked me up just after 7 a.m. and we made a quick stop at a
nearby Starbucks. We got to Jennifer's, about five miles above
Oakhurst, around 8:30, and were on our way within a few minutes.
Driving back to Highway 41 on Bissett Station Road, we saw her
husband Rod on his morning bike ride, and stopped to say hello for a
few moments.
As we expected, there
were a lot of cars at the trailhead, but we got the last legitimate
parking spot. After that people were parking anywhere from a hundred
feet to a half mile from the trailhead, wherever they could find
room.
This was the same
starting point as our Sentinel
Dome hike in October of last year. From the parking lot it's
about 50 feet to the start of the trail. Go to the right and it's
1.1 miles to the dome; to the left it's 1.1 miles to Taft
Point. Wes went there about 20 years ago, and I was there in
1982, but it was Jennifer's first time, although she has done
many other Yosemite hikes.
This is one of the
easier treks that takes you into serious off-road territory - only a
little over a mile each way, and with just a little up and down,
nothing steep. The first part is fairly open, with huge western
white pines and a few Jeffrey pines. Then it goes into a cool, shady
red fir forest, with a few other tree species, many shrubs, and
probably a half dozen kinds of wildflowers.
The most common shrub,
appearing in the more open
areas, is pinemat
manzanita, a very low-growing member of this species. It
is found at higher elevations throughout the west. Although it has
the red branches of its tree-size relatives, these
"branches" are really small woody stems, seldom more than
a half-inch in diameter.
After some up and down,
the trail comes to a fairly long gentle slope, where you can see your
destination, which rises up to a large, rocky
overhang. But before
walking out to the actual point, a look at The Fissures is
mandatory. These are short, narrow canyons into the side of a larger
fissure, best explained by the photos below. If you are walking
along the edge of the main fissure, you will come to a side fissure
which is maybe ten to fifteen feet across - but you have to walk
back from the edge 50 feet or more to make your way around to the
other side. Needless to say, this is a place where being careful is
essential.
I was here in 1982 with
two 18-year olds, Tim (now my son-in-law) and his friend Scott. They
made their way out on to a ridge in one of the larger fissures. As
Scott touched the rock at the very end, it tilted a little. He
decided he had gone far enough, but even this limited excursion
looks pretty scary, as seen here
and here.
Wes, Jennifer and I did not feel the slightest temptation to repeat
their actions, and the place looks just
as scary with no one sitting on it.
This proved to be a good
area for the first of two Wes on the Rock photos, and I repeated my
action of 33 years earlier, getting down on hands and knees to look
over the edge. While I was doing so, Wes captured this
scene. Jennifer claims she was taking a photo of her shoe,
but let's face it, how many people go around photographing their
footwear?
After enjoying and
photographing the fissures, and peering cautiously over the edge at
the steep drop below, we walked out to the main part of Taft Point.
From the fissures, this is seen to be a huge rock
promontory, which
slopes back from an overhang. At the edge of the highest point there
is a small railing, where you can lean over and look straight down
for a loooooooooooong ways. There is a view here of El Capitan where
you are actually looking down at the top of that huge rock from a slightly higher
elevation (7,500 feet). You also get a good look at Yosemite
Falls,
which is mostly dry, but appears to have a tiny trickle of water.
Most of the other famous rock
features of the valley are hidden by the ridge on the opposite side
of the main fissure. From the point you can see Mt.
Hoffman
clearly, and make out the top of North Dome and Basket Dome. Of course, there is a
nice view down into Yosemite
Valley, with the river winding through
it. To the west, fairly close to Taft Point and on the same side of
the valley are the Cathedral
Rocks. Half Dome, Glacier Point, and the falls on the
Merced River are hidden from view.
We probably spent an hour
at the fissures and the point, enjoying a snack to give us energy
for the return trip. On the trail both ways we saw countless
chipmunks, probably preparing for the winter. We also saw a fat
ground squirrel, and heard ravens. The most common animals were our
fellow humans - to the best of my memory, we saw more people on this
trail than any other Ramblers hike. We talked with some of them,
including one party that was making the full tour of the trail
system to visit Taft Point, Sentinel Dome and Glacier Point, a trip
of probably at least six miles.
Along the trail there are
junctions to trails leading to Old Inspiration
Point, about eight
miles away above the very western end of the valley. There's also a
cutoff trail that goes to Sentinel Dome, and other destinations I
can't recall.
During our walk we
discussed the deaths of two world-class BASE
jumpers, who were killed
in May jumping from Taft Point. Although the advocates of this
activity defend their "right to jump," it is illegal and one of the most
dangerous sports in existence. Every year jumpers who insist on
tempting fate die in the process, and we all agreed that we could
not understand its appeal.
During our drive back to
Oakhurst we decided to eat at the Pizza
Factory, an excellent chain that operates almost exclusively in
small towns. They started in Oakhurst and Mariposa, and Oakhurst
remains the site of corporate headquarters. Jennifer called to see
if Rod wanted to join us, but he requested that she bring something
home for him.
Also on our drive we
listed to a couple of CDs that I had brought. We started this with
one of our trips a few months ago, and I have made it a point to try
to expand my companions' musical horizons and challenge their ability
to recognize songs and artists. This time I brought a compilation CD
that I had made of pop songs from my vinyl collection, many from the
1940s and '50s. This included a tune that we have declared the
Rambler's official song, "The Happy Wanderer." Check out
the lyrics here
to see how well they fit. There's a link to play the song on that
page, and the original
recorded version is on You Tube.
When we finished our
lunch, we drove back to Jennifer's, and visited with her and Rod for
a short time, then made our way back down the mountain, ready to
plan another adventure for next month. Hopefully Carolyn and Julie
will be back on the trail with us.4
--Dick Estel, August 2015
Taft Point Photos |
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Wawona
Trails
For our September hike,
the Ramblers were again without Julie and Carolyn, both still
dealing with health issues. Fortunately, it looks like they will be
back on the trail in October.
On September 17 Wes
picked me up about 8 a.m., and we again drove up highway 41 to
Yosemite National Park. We had originally planned to hike in the
Sequoia National Monument north of Grant Grove in Kings Canyon
National Park, but a major forest
fire has spread throughout that area, starting from lightning at
the end of July, and only now getting mostly under control.
Our destination was
Wawona, one of the earliest places of development in the Yosemite
area. The first
road into what is now the park came into Wawona through the
Chowchilla Mountains to the west. Three brothers of the Washburn
family came from Vermont, and had modest success in mining and
as merchants in Mariposa County. They improved an existing road,
bought the crude existing facilities at what was then called Clark's
Station in 1874, and began a program of improvements to what soon
became known
as Wawona. They rebuilt the hotel after it burned, and started a
stage coach line to bring visitors to Yosemite, and of course, to
their commercial operations next to a huge meadow.
Today the area contains
numerous government, private and commercial buildings, dominated by the
1885 hotel, restored and modernized inside, but keeping the
original exterior. Other buildings include a historic covered
bridge, at least two stores, a schoolhouse and a post office.
A drive of a mile and a
half on a winding road through Wawona leads to the trailhead for the
Chilnualna
Falls Trail. The falls is actually a series of five cascades, spread
out for some distance on Chilnualna Creek. The upper fall is the
most dramatic, but also difficult to see and get close to. The trail
to that point is four miles, and in the words of the trail
description, "climbs relentlessly." I had been
part way up this trail with my older daughter in
1980, and Wes has gone the full distance, but it was our
intention to just cover as much of the trail as I was comfortable
with.
We
had talked of taking another trail there, a fairly level route that
runs around the golf course and adjacent meadow, and by the time we
started up the Chilnualna trail, we were pretty much in agreement
that we would go a short distance on this trail, then walk as much
of the meadow trail as we had time for.
The
Chilnualna trail goes many places and many miles beyond the falls,
and at the start of our hike we talked briefly with a couple who
were carrying full size backpacks. They were going in for three
nights, with no firm destination - just wherever they ended up.
As
you start up the trail you can look down into the creek, and it
immediately appeared that there was very little water if any, the
fate of most Sierra streams this year. We soon arrived at the first
cascade, where we left the trail and walked down toward the
creek. There was the tiniest little trickle of water coming down the
rocks, and then disappearing under the boulders - nothing like the
roaring cataract that should be there, even in late summer.
The
route of the stream is not a gentle creek here. You are looking at
and standing in a jumble of giant
blocks of granite, with a steep drop down into the bottom of the
creek. The huge boulders are piled up in front of you, reaching up a
hundred feet above. We could only imagine what it would be like to
stand there in late spring of a good rain year and see the tons of
water crashing down.
This
proved to be the perfect spot for the obligatory "Wes
on the rock" photo, in fact, we found two good spots for
it. Leaving this area, the trail moves away from the creek and
starts a series of switchbacks. Coming to a trail junction, we opted
to follow the horse trail back to our starting point and conclude
part one of our hike, having covered 1.5 miles.
We drove back out to the
main highway and parked at the Wawona
Hotel, then walked across the road to the trail that crosses the
golf course, then goes around the course and the adjacent meadow.
The section of this route from highway to trail is part of the old
Chowchilla Mountain Road, the oldest road in the park. Back in the
1960s I drove in from Mariposa on this road, but I believe access is
now blocked, since it allowed people to bypass the entrance stations
and enter Yosemite without paying. Of course, they often check your
receipt or pass on the way out, and collect at that time if you don't have
evidence of legal entry.
The road continues to the
west, how far I don't know, but we turned left on to the trail, and
enjoyed a delightful "walk in the woods." The trail goes
through a forest of sugar pine, ponderosa pine, cedar and fir; as
well as many lesser species of shrubs, bushes, trees and plants. As
far as we followed it, the trail is within sight of the
meadow. There is an ancient rail
fence surrounding the entire meadow, and it appears that it
dates from the early days of the hotel complex. We also came to the
remnants of a cattle
chute through the fence, with nothing but the side rails still
standing.
We walked well past the
golf course and along the meadow, finally turning back "just
around the next bend," with a total walk of just under two
miles.
We had not eaten the
snacks we brought with us, so by this time we were ready for lunch,
and went into the hotel
dining room, where large windows along two walls provide a nice
view of the outdoors. Our lunch was very good, although fairly
expensive, not surprising for a national park.
Two weeks ago smoke from
the Rough Fire had spread as far as Oakhurst, on the way to
Yosemite. Even in the park, views were seriously degraded
However, everything was clear and sharp for our trip, with stunning
views in the foothills and mountains. It was warm when we hiked
uphill, but very comfortable on the meadow trail. The temperatures
were in the high 60s, with a slight breeze now and then. All in all,
we could not have asked for better conditions.
Note: The articles
I read about Wawona history (links
below) give some conflicting information about the dates of
events during the early history of the area. I would give the most
credence to the
article by Shirley
Sargent, who lived in Foresta, a private reserve adjacent to the
park, for decades, and wrote many
books about Yosemite people and places.
2016
update: Due to the greed of the prior concessionaire and the
laxity of the park service, the Wawona Hotel was officially known as Big
Trees Lodge at the time of our hike. Those of us who grew up in the area
had vowed never to speak that name, and this travesty was resolved
in 2019, restoring the original name to this and other locations in
the park.
--Dick Estel, September
2015
Wawona
Trails Photos |
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Shadow
of the Giants Trail & California Meadow
Although I visited Nelder Grove
a number of times over several years before I found the Shadow of
the Giants Trail, I have been on it a number of times since. My
daughter Jennifer and I went there in July of 2013, and I took my next
door neighbors, Bob and Alice, there in September
of 2014. The Ramblers hiked in the
main part of Nelder Grove in early
September last year, but this was their first visit to the
Giants trail, which is about a mile and a half west of the
campground by road.
In the Good News
Department, we were back
at full strength, with Julie and Carolyn fully recovered from their
health issues. So we met at Julie's about 9 a.m. on October 29,
stopped for coffee, and made the drive up highway 41 through
Oakhurst to Sky Ranch Road. After a short jaunt on two dirt surface
forest roads, we got on the trail
between 10:30 and 11. It had rained in the mountains during the
previous two weeks, so the ground was damp but not muddy, and the air was
cool enough that we all were glad that we wore light jackets.
Just as we started our
hike, a group of young school kids was finishing a hike, and one
turned out to be a neighbor of Wes. We said our hellos to the kids
and their adult companions, and started up the trail. It goes up one
side of Nelder Creek, crosses on a wooden bridge, and returns on the
opposite side. There are informational panels along the trail,
discussing the logging of sequoias in the late 19th century, and
describing various trees and other sights that hikers encounter
along the way.
The large sequoias in the
area are best seen on the west side of the creek, although some of
them can be glimpsed through the forest on the east side. For this
reason I prefer to walk the trail counter-clockwise, in order to
encounter the more impressive specimens during the last half of the
hike.
Particularly notable is a
huge standing dead
sequoia, which is fairly rare. The species is
highly resistant to fire, disease and insects, and the most common
cause of death is falling over. When they do fall, the wood stays
solid for decades, instead of rotting fairly quickly as most trees
do. This particular standing snag appears to have been dead for many
decades, but still has a significant amount of bark around the lower
part of the trunk.
The wood of the sequoia
is quite brittle, with the result that many trees shattered on being
cut, and were not suitable for lumber. A number of these were left
where they fell, but the wood is still as solid as they day they
fell.
We enjoyed the half dozen
or so large trees that were visible on the downstream part of the
hike, some of them immediately adjacent to the trail. A bonus
feature was the dogwood
trees, with their leaves changing to fall
colors and adding some contrasting red and pink spots against the
evergreens.
We also had a pleasant
conversation with a group of two families from southern California.
They had visited Yosemite, and were now looking for a chance to show
their kids the biggest trees. We gave them directions to the Bull
Buck Tree, located near the campground, and also gave them some
suggestions about visiting Grant Grove and Giant Forest in Kings
Canyon and Sequoia National Parks.
Across the road from the
trailhead there is a single large sequoia, the Sierra Beauty, and a
picnic table, where we rested and enjoyed our snack, and took our
group photo.
Since the hike we had
just completed was only a mile, I suggested another walk in a
location I've been to a number of times, and everyone agreed they
could handle some more hiking.
We drove back the way we
had come and parked where California Creek crosses the dirt road a
short distance from Sky Ranch Road. An old road goes in about a half
mile to California Meadow. The road parallels the creek at a
distance, and the stream is not visible till you get to the meadow.
Although this road was once drivable, it is now blocked by a large
log and is not maintained. Nonetheless, hikers and even dirt bike riders have
managed to find a narrow way between the log and the bank. I have
been up this road a half dozen times or more and have never seen anyone
else there. However, where logs have fallen across the road, enough
people have been through there to create short detours that are
fairly easy to hike, and the path looks well-used.
Along the way there is a
patch of thistles in the road, most of them gone to seed and dying
as nature intended. However, a couple of them are confused by the
changing weather and were putting out new
blossoms.
Accessing the meadow
requires crossing the creek, and this proved to be a little more
difficult than I expected. The recent rains have created enough of a
flow that the little stream was too wide to step across, but more
problematic, the edges were marshy. We found some old board that we
put down and all made it across, but then there was another branch
of the creek to cross. All but Julie got across OK, but this
crossing was a bit more difficult, and she was feeling a bit
unsteady. We finally located another spot where the creek was narrow
enough, although Julie had to squeeze under a log that had fallen
across the channel.
Finally we were all in
the meadow, and everyone was glad they had made the effort. Among
the unique aspects of this place are some old
stumps, one of
which has been turned into a memorial of sorts, with the name and
dates of a woman who died much too young. These stumps were here
when I first came to this place in the 1970s, and they looked
ancient then. The carvings, which include just a name and date on
one side, appear to have been made since
1990.
Even more fascinating was
a sight that Wes and I have seen once or twice, but was new to
Julie and Carolyn. Thousands of ladybugs were massed together on old
logs and stumps, apparently in preparation for winter. We
saw them on virtually every stump and piece of old wood in the
meadow.
Walking toward the
downstream end of the meadow, we found a crossing place that was
much easier than the ones we had picked before, and the two sections
of the stream had joined by this location, so getting across
was not the challenge it had been earlier. We made our way up
to the trail, and soon were back at Wes's SUV, ready for the return
trip home.
We were also ready for a
late lunch, so our first stop was at El
Cid, an excellent Mexican
restaurant in Oakhurst. With our various stops along the Nelder
Grove trail, our wandering around the meadow, and time spent eating
and snacking, we made a rather late return, getting back to Fresno a
little before five. We were discussing where to go on our next hike,
and agreed that the changeable weather of this season meant we would
have to make a fairly last-minute decision.
(Note: Some photos linked
above are from previous visits to Nelder Grove)
--Dick Estel, November
2015
Shadow of the Giants
Photos
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San
Joaquin River Trail (Finegold)
We've reached that time
of year when the weather often dictates where and when we ramble.
For our November 24 outing we had planned to hike near Bass Lake,
but rain was predicted at that location early in the day. Rain was
also expected in the San Joaquin Valley and nearby foothills, but
not till around 5 p.m., so we set out for the Finegold Picnic area,
by Millerton Lake at the end of Sky Harbor Road. Here we would hike
up a short distance on the San Joaquin River
Trail, enjoy the
scenery and a snack, and return.
Julie was called to Texas
to help a friend, so it was just Dick, Wes and Carolyn, all of whom
have hiked this trail in the past (Wes has done the entire 11-mile
route, all the way to the San Joaquin River Gorge area). I had done
it very recently, on November 8. At that time the new green grass
was just getting started, but now, just over two weeks later, it is
growing well, thanks to a series of rainstorms starting in
mid-October.
It was quite cool as we
started out, and I carried an extra shirt in my pack. This proved
unnecessary, as we all ended up removing a layer, and I had to haul
TWO shirts part way up and all the way down. Since I had very little
other than water in my pack, this was not a great burden.
This area is around 1,000
feet in elevation, with typical foothill vegetation - blue oak, live
oak, bull pine, manzanita, chaparral, and lots of annual plants,
many of which will produce flowers in a couple of months. There were
a few clouds drifting over, but for the most part we had blue skies,
slightly hazy sunshine, and very nice conditions for hiking.
The trail goes up for
about a mile, then crosses a saddle, and continues parallel to the
lake and the river, with long stretches that are relatively level.
We did not go past the saddle, but did go up an unofficial trail to
the north. After a hundred yards or so this leads to the top of a
knoll, where the view includes the lake on two sides, bright green
grassy areas, and hundreds of trees on the hillsides. You can also
see the very top of Pincushion Peak sticking up above another knoll
to the west. There's a trail to the top of Pincushion, but it's a
fairly strenuous hike, and we had no plans to include that
destination at this time.
Everyone posed for an
"on the rock" photo, and we took our group photo in that
format also. Then it was time to start down the trail, which takes
almost as much effort as the uphill portion due to the steepness of
the route.
When we got back to the car, we drove to the small town
of Friant, located just below the
dam that bears the same name. Wes
had recommended the Sandals at the Beach Grill on one of our
previous hikes in the area, but it was closed. This time we were in
luck, and we enjoyed a great lunch. This facility is basically a
large, permanent tent with optional patio dining. There's a beach
volleyball court and various beach
related items outside. The heavy vinyl walls of the tent are
rolled up during the summer, but they were down in this season, and
the temperature was quite comfortable.
Instead of taking Wes's
Toyota Highlander, for a change of pace, I
drove my sort of new (2014) Honda CR-V, and we finished up our
outing listening to The Best of the Nitty Gritty Dirt Band on the CD
player.
--Dick Estel, November
2015
San Joaquin River Trail Photos
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Jensen
Trail
The
Ramblers were back at full strength for our final hike of the year,
which was scheduled for December 14 at the San Joaquin River Gorge.
Of course, with a year that has already seen above-average rainfall
and low elevation snow, we are obsessively watching the weather
forecast for days before each hike, ready to adjust our plans if
necessary.
When
we gathered at my house around 9 a.m., the prediction for our hiking
area was for temperatures below 40 and winds up to 9 MPH. In
addition, we had received rain, hail, and low elevation snow the day
before, so we decided on a destination closer to home. Wes suggested
the Jensen
River Ranch Trail, in the San Joaquin River bottom north of Woodward
Park. He has hiked and biked there extensively, and Julie had
also hiked there. Carolyn and I did not even know this trail
existed.
We
parked in a shopping center across from the start of the Eaton Trail
at the edge of the park, crossed the street, and walked along the
bluff to the west. From here a short
section of trail took us to the river bottom and the location of
the former Jensen
Ranch. In this area the
river flood plain is at least a mile across, with the river itself
occupying a narrow channel in the middle.
The
trail branches off in several places, with both paved and dirt
sections, and you can take different loops to control the length of
your walk. At one point we took a short dirt path that goes right to
the edge of the
water, which was flowing strongly. We encountered another hiker
who had seen a 20-inch salmon in the river earlier that day.
We
didn't sight any fish, but we saw many birds, rabbits and squirrels.
We saw a red tail hawk, also watching for the rodents, an egret, and a
sandpiper, both standing in marshy areas in search of food.
In one
area a habitat restoration project is under way, and a number of
trees have been planted in sections that are fenced off to protect
the young saplings till they can reach a larger size. Near this spot
there is a drainage channel that collects runoff from the bluffs
above, creating a marshy stream near the trail.
The
only thing lacking on this hike was a rock for our traditional Wes
on the Rock photo, but we got a nice shot of the
Ramblers with the trees along the river as our backdrop. The
weather was very cool, about 50 degrees, but mostly sunny with some
nice fluffy white
clouds for contrast.
Eventually
we made our way back
up the bluff, through a newly developed area of the park, and
back to the car, a total of three miles of walking. This gave us a
good appetite for our visit to Eddie's
Bakery, on Cedar just north of Herndon. This place features
various pastries, as well as an extensive breakfast and lunch menu,
and we all enjoyed our choices.
Driving
back to our starting point at my house, our conversation turned to
the first hike of 2016, but we realized that weather has a greater
say-so than we do, so we did not make any specific plans yet.
--Dick Estel, December 2015
Jensen
Trail Photos |
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Photos
(Click to enlarge; pictures open in new window)
(Photos by Wes Thiessen and Dick Estel) |
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Courtright
Reservoir Hike
Taft Point
Wawona Trails
Shadow of the Giants
San Joaquin River Trail
Jensen Trail |
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Courtright Reservoir Hike |
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The LeConte
Divide |
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Dick and Carolyn at
LeConte Overlook |
Helms Creek flows
through the
canyon beyond the foreground ridge |
Information |
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Courtright Reservoir |
Another view of the lake |
Domes to the east of the
lake |
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Helms Creek canyon from
the dam |
Looking down the canyon |
Dome to the east of the
trail |
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A closer view of the
eastern dome |
View of the boulder
field from the trail |
The southern edge of
the boulder field |
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Three views of
the dome to the west of the trail, between trail and lake |
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Panoramic view
of the eastern dome |
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Maxson Dome |
Juniper on the rocky
slopes above the trail |
Multiple juniper trunks |
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More of those unidentified
flowers |
These flowers appeared
in only one location |
Burl on a young lodgepole
pine |
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Where the trail and the
OHV route separate |
On the boardwalk |
Wes and Carolyn on the
granite slab,
setting up for group photo |
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The Ramblers, a huge
boulder,
and Maxson Dome beyond |
Closer view of the gang |
Carolyn and Dick |
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Dramatic
granite and striking cloud formations |
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Huge boulders were dropped
at random as the ice melted |
Carolyn's thinking,
"You'd
never get ME up there!" |
Wes safely on the rock |
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Typical section of the road |
A Mariposa boy with
Mariposa lilies |
Close up of Mariposa lilies |
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Three photos
from my first visit to the area (Lew Koch on the boulder) |
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Taft
Point |
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Now we've been both ways |
Into the red fir forest |
Neatly piled rocks east of
the point
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Boulders and red firs |
Typical trail scene -
rocks,
trees
and lots of pinemat manzanita |
Rocks hang in this fissure |
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Ridge where Tim
and Scott crawled out in 1982 |
Another view of the ridge |
And yet another view |
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A large side fissure
off the main one |
Hikers by the big fissure |
Wes on the rock, keeping a
safe distance from the edge |
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Edge
of the cliff with the top
of Taft Point in upper left |
Along the edge of the big
fissure,
with the valley's north rim beyond |
Boulders
near the edge |
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Jennifer chooses a safe way
to look into the void |
So does Dick |
Jennifer claims she was
just
taking a picture of her shoe |
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Half the Ramblers plus
Jennifer
at the edge of Taft Point |
The dramatic overhang of
Taft Point, looking north |
Benchmark at the point |
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"If I push this off,
Wes won't be tempted to climb it" |
Too late - he's up there! |
Yosemite Falls - or maybe
Yosemite Trickle? |
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Looking down on El Capitan |
Cathedral Rocks, west
of Taft Point |
Mt.
Hoffman, on the north side of Tenaya Canyon
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The Merced River winds
through Yosemite Valley |
Eight-foot boulder is part
of a large quartz outcropping |
Fireweed with a big red fir
as background
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Close-up of
fireweed blossom |
An unidentified
flower |
Map
showing Taft Point and
areas on the trail system |
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One of dozens of chipmunks
we saw during our hike |
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Wawona
Trails Photos |
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Golf
course and meadow |
Wawona Dome |
Jumbled rocks on
Chilnualna Creek |
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The tiny
trickle of the falls |
Wes on the rock |
Bear clover AKA
mountain
misery |
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The
meadow |
Rail fence from pioneer
days
surrounds the meadow |
Wes stands by an ancient
cattle chute, now out of service |
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The
trail by the meadow |
Yummy snack for the
wildlife |
Distinctive bark of a
ponderosa pine |
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Unknown
white blossoms |
Wes and Dick in front of
the Wawona Hotel |
Time for lunch |
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Shadow of
the Giants Trail & California Meadow |
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Dogwood leads the fall
color parade |
Carolyn and Julie
squeeze inside a sequoia |
Wes and Dick try it too |
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Dead but still standing |
Two big sequoias |
Wes on the log |
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The log Wes was on |
Probably the biggest giant
on the Shadow of the Giants tril |
The trail and the trees |
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Massive lower trunk |
Thick, rugged bark at
the
base of a big sequoia |
Burl on the Sierra Beauty |
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The Ramblers next to the
Sierra Beauty tree |
Dick, Carolyn and Wes in
California Meadow |
Rick has made this stump
his personal monument |
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Julie and Dick examine
the carved stump |
Lady bugs preparing for
winter |
More ladybugs |
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San Joaquin
River Trail - Finegold |
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The lake
is fuller than last year |
Carolyn
and Dick above the
half-way point on the trail |
A great
sight - bright green grass |
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This
time it's Carolyn on the Rock |
And all
the Ramblers present too |
It was
misty down on the lake |
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This
dead blue oak stands
guard at the top of the knoll |
A nice crop of cones |
Squaw Leap in the distance |
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Pincushion
Peak peeps over
the green knoll to the west |
We met
this gentleman on the trail on our way down |
At
Sandals on the Beach with a typical beach denizen |
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Jensen
Ranch Trail |
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Jensen
Trail sign |
Wes
points the way |
The
trail down to the river bottom |
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A grassy
glade beside the trail |
Fall
color set off by blue sky and clouds |
A huge,
leafless tree near the river |
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Volunteers
were gathering trash |
The San
Joaquin River |
Sandpiper
searches for lunch in a marshy spot |
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Wes sets
up for the group shot |
The
Ramblers |
Julie
and Carolyn on the trail |
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More clouds |
More
walkers enjoying a cold, sunny hike |
Egret waiting for lunch |
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Golden trees |
Valley Children's Hospital,
on the bluffs above the river |
Rambling |
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Related Links |
|
Shaver
Lake |
Dinkey
Creek |
McKinley
Grove |
Dusy-Ershim
Trail |
LeConte
Divide |
Sierra
National Forest |
Courtright
Reservoir |
Taft
Point |
Bissett
Station |
Sentinel
Dome & Taft Point Trail System
|
Old Inspiration
Point |
Pinemat
Manzanita |
Red
Fir |
Yosemite
National Park |
Sentinel
Dome |
Washburn
Family |
History
of Wawona |
Wawona
Hotel |
Chilnualna
Trail |
Undiscovered
Yosemite |
Shirley
Sargent |
Nelder
Grove Trails |
El
Cid Mexican Restaurant |
Nelder
Grove Photos |
Jensen
River Ranch Trail |
Friant
Dam |
San Joaquin River Gorge |
|
San
Joaquin River Parkway - Trails, Parks etc. |
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